Inside the Traveler's Mind: Kahlil Pfaff

Some travel for food, some for art, and some people are searching for that special place in the world that speaks to them. Our first interviewee, and a long-time friend of mine, has been fortunate enough to find that place in Lebanon. Over the past few years, he's been traveling there to do volunteer work, and in the process has found a second home. His experiences have given him a unique perspective on travel, one that I couldn't help but want to share. Check out our interview below to see what he's learned about packing light, traveling in unfamiliar places, and simply traveling well.
Name: Kahlil Pfaff
Hometown: Bumpass, Va
Current Location: Lynchburg, Va...in transit though.
Where have you been?
Mexico (Pachuca and Mexico City); London, England; Istanbul, Turkey; New Brunswick, Canada; Lebanon (traveled extensively).
What's your favorite travel memory?
Can't say that I have one particular favorite memory, but one that does stand out was a trip to Steuben, Maine for research. After the sun had set a group of us went on a night hike to Dyer Bay. Don't remember the particular time, it might have been around 10pm when we started to see a strange reddish glow, almost fire-like, come from Cadillac Mountain. Eventually the moon peeked out from behind the mountain and lit up the coast. The combination of good friends, nature, and a moon-rise that I have never experienced again made for a memorable evening that I could never forget. I'll save the story of chasing a porcupine at 2am down Route 1 with a roll of paper towels for another time.
Do you have a favorite airport?
Not really. I've spent far more time at Heathrow than I'd care to, but each time I've found it a comfortable environment and pleasant experience. I do look forward to arriving at Hariri International Airport (Beirut) because it means that I am returning to Lebanon.
What's on your essential packing list? What have you learned to leave at home and what can't you live without?
My cell phone has now become an essential. A good quad-band GSM (unlocked) phone with international roaming and the ability to get a SIM card for local phone service can be a lifesaver. The more I have traveled the less I have learned to pack. I tend to pack light and versatile clothing that can be washed and dried quickly as well as be worn for a variety of occasions. As electronics wear out I try to find replacements that can handle a range of voltage requirements. This allows me to keep from packing heavy transformers and converters. Flexibility and a good attitude are also things I try bring along.
If you got stuck somewhere and were never able to leave, where would it be?
Lebanon, no hesitation or second thoughts.
Who's your travel hero?
Anthony Bourdain, what is not to like about him?...Don't answer that!

What's the biggest travel myth that you can debunk?
This is from my personal experience so YMMV and try at your own risk, but street food is amazing. With street food you often get to see how it is prepared and what goes into it. There is the chance of a bad reaction or something not sitting well, but that is what Immodium and Cipro are for. I'd much rather eat where and what the locals are eating.
What mistake have you learned from that could help others to avoid the same mistake?
Before taking a taxi make sure you negotiate a price. Over Christmas in Beirut I wasn't thinking and set myself up for being taken advantage of. I needed to get from downtown Beirut to Borj Hammoud, so I flagged down a taxi and just said, "Go." The route was difficult due to traffic, but the few miles the ride was didn't warrant the $20 fare. I did get it down to about $12, but it was still too much. When I asked how much he said, "what it normally costs." My response, "I don't know, what do you think is fair?" See, perfect set-up. Although not too happy about being used I didn't feel too bad, as the Lebanese economy isn't all that great and the driver probably needed it more than I did.
What's the first thing you do when you get off the plane or leave the airport?
Getting off the plane I head immediately to the restroom. Upon leaving the airport (applies to Lebanon only) I do my best to get some sajj or man'oushe.
What do you plan before you leave home and what do you leave to chance?
I am anal about the flights and transportation to and from my destination. This is the only aspect of travel that I am the least flexible with. Everything else is pretty much left to chance or with minimal guidance. I don't tend to travel with the goal of sightseeing, I tend to go with the attitude of living and experiencing life wherever I may go. It is very freeing to not be overly structured.
You find yourself in an unfamiliar situation while on the road. What do you do? How do you approach a problem? What advice would you give to a timid traveler?
Take a deep breath and try to relax. Travel, especially international travel, gives you the chance to practice patience and flexibility. There will be unfamiliar and stressful situations, panicking and becoming rigid in your thinking is the last thing you want to do. Be yourself, be humble, and don't be afraid to ask for help. I've never (knock on wood) been in a situation and needed some sort of help where I was ignored or taken advantage of.
Your most memorable meal....
Was in Lebanon over Christmas 2007. The friend I was staying with opened up his house to about 20 people that he knew couldn't afford a Christmas meal or didn't have a place to go for Christmas. We spent all day making tabbouleh, kabobs, kofta, kibbeh, and decorating his flat for the holidays. The fellowship and simplicity of the evening was magical and I couldn't have asked for more.
If you could only give one piece of travel advice, what would it be?
To just be...be humble, flexible, forgiving, and open to new experiences.

What's your take on souvenirs? What do you bring home with you?
I tend to take only pictures and make memories. For times that I need to bring back a gift I try to return with items that you can't find anywhere else. In Lebanon when you go to Al-Arz, the Cedars (near Bcharre), you find these little gift shops that make wonderful handmade crafts from pine and cedar wood. You can generally negotiate a great deal and you get a gift that is uniquely Lebanese.
Do you have a travel experience that's changed how you look at the world or changed your life?
Each time I have traveled I've come away changed, but the moment that sticks out the most was during the summer of 2005 while in Beirut. I was staying with a group of friends in Monsourieh, an eastern suburb of Beirut. The night before I was to return home I had gone up to the roof to spend some time alone and think. Since my first trip to Lebanon in 2004 I felt that I would keep returning, it had captured my heart and I couldn't imagine never going back. While on the roof I was taken by the lights surrounding me and the whole of Beirut spilling down the hills to the darkness of the Mediterranean. It was during this moment that I knew I would return and started to seriously consider how I might move to Beirut.
What's your next trip?
My next trip will be to Colorado Springs and Seattle. I am looking forward to spending a few weeks at the base of Pike's Peak and experiencing fall out West. This will be my first time to both cities. I am starting a new job in Beirut here shortly so the next international trip will be at the end of 2008 when I move to Lebanon.
Anything else you want to share?
When traveling you are a guest and a student. Don't wear out your welcome and remember you don't know everything. Wherever you are from, whatever your political or religious affiliation, you are an ambassador representing your country and culture, even if you don't realize it. The impression you make could be life-changing for those you encounter.
Kahlil will be working and living in Lebanon starting in a few months, you can keep up with his travels on his blog, From Bumpass to Beirut.







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