A farmers market, in Beirut...why? Why invest in something like this when there are tons of green grocers and bakeries all over the country? I think the answers lie in quality food, sustainability, and community. Souk el-Tayeb (the Good Market) brings farmers, craftsmen, and producers from the various regions of Lebanon and plants them in a parking lot in Saifi, near the central business district in downtown Beirut. Reflecting the cultural and religious diversity of Lebanon the market features Druze, Sunni, Shiite, and Christian vendors from the Beqaa, the coast, the mountains, and the suburbs of Beirut.
When I heard that a farmers market had opened up in Beirut I was excited and couldn't wait to visit it, the fact that it is so close to downtown Beirut made it easily accessible via public transportation and gave me an opportunity to spend time in a part of the city that I generally only go to when I am with guests. The market is open from 9-2 every Saturday and operates year-round. Another market location at the ABC mall in Achrefieh is open every Wednesday afternoon.
I wasn't quite sure what to expect before I got to the market so I attempted to go with an open mind, so that I would either be blown away or able to limit any disappointment. The atmosphere was quite warm and welcoming, the layout not unlike the farmers markets I had visited in the US. I felt at home and enjoyed the experience, returning is most definitely on the agenda.
Upon entering the market, which is held in a parking lot, you'll find that most of the vendors set up shop on the edge, with a few craftsmen and specialty stands in the middle. Immediately I was greeted by various vendors eager for me to sample (and purchase) their goods. The first stand I stopped at impressed me the most, as the vendor seemed to embody the spirit of the market. A vegetarian and cook who preferred to use simple ingredients, this lady made the most amazing savory pastries and sweets that I tasted in Lebanon: rolled dough with olives and hot pepper paste, kibbeh stuffed with pumpkin (in lieu of meat), and fatayer filled with fresh thyme and onion. I left with a box of molasses (carob) biscuits and a promise to come back again. Although not quite as impressive the lady at the stand next to hers had some of the best marzipan cookies I've ever tasted, so I bought a box of those as well.
As I passed each stall I was invited in to taste and sample jams, baked items, sauces, mouneh, and fruits. Lebanese hospitality was experienced time after time, leaving me feeling guilty because I could not purchase something from each vendor. I met a fruit vendor from near Jounieh that sold 'einaab (jujube), rose apples, and dried stevia leaves. The 'einaab was unlike anything I had ever tasted before, similar in appearance to an olive it was slightly sweet and firm. The rose apples were amazing, crisp in texture and mildly sweet. Accustomed to the white powered form of stevia in the US it was quite pleasant to try it in whole leaf form. It can be ground for baking or added leaf by leaf to sweeten beverages. There was an even balance to farm produce and baked goods, many vendors selling organic and all natural whole foods. I heartily recommend the madeline and focaccia bread, they are worth searching for.
Although the concept of the farmers market is noble and I am pleased to see a movement like this develop in Lebanon I am not sure it is accessible to the general population yet, which is the only complaint I have so far. While the vendors represent the varied religious, geographic, and cultural groups of Lebanon I believe that the targeted demographic (at least for this location) is the urban Beiruti, middle to upper class, and foreigners. The prices for the veggies and produced items are more expensive that what you'd encounter at your local vegetable stand or supermarket. The increased cost is probably due in part to higher quality foods, organically grown produce, and hard to find items. The goal of the organization that operates the market is to set up similar sites throughout the country. While the locations in Achrefieh and Saifi probably cater to a more affluent crowd that can afford the higher prices, sites in more rural areas will likely demand lower prices as the target audience will be different. For a program such as this to get established it seems to make sense to offer it first to those that can subsidize the cost and make it trendy. Hopefully as it becomes more popular it will, over time, become more affordable and accessible.
The market was a great place to meet people, sample various dishes and food items from around the country, and to practice my Arabic. It is my hope to become a regular visitor and supporter of this program. Visit the Souk el-Tayeb website for more information on the markets and other programs.
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