Eating Local in the Caribbean: Virgin Island Sustainable Farm Institute

In my travels, I'm always on the hunt for something off the beaten path. On a recent trip to St. Croix, I found this quite literally, as I headed off into woods to the Virgin Island Sustainable Farm Institute (or VISFI.) What I discovered down that path was an oasis of tropical fruit, sustainable farming, and a community of people who touched my heart. If you're looking to get off of the beach and experience a different side of St. Croix, head down this road.

I think Chef Tahirah Abu-Bakr, summed up the farm best with her statement, "you've got to listen to the food." I could try to restate her point, but I think she makes the case best in her own words here.

And listen is what I did, beginning with a tour of the farm by Program Director, Nate Olive. Nate showed us around a portion of the twenty acre working farm focusing on three plants that will save St. Croix; cassava, coconut and moringa. Living on an island, where the threat of a hurricane is real, a survivalist mentality is not so far off and these are three plants that could sustain you, in case of emergency.

If you're not familiar with moringa (like I was), it is a tree who's pod is a popular vegetable in Africa and Asia, but much of the plant is edible.

I sampled the leaves, buds and pods in the field and later during lunch. Nate described to us it's nutritional value (a significant source of beta-carotene, vitamin C, protein, iron, and potassium) as well as informing us that the dried seeds can be used to purify water.

We wandered the fields and learned about beneficial plant pairings and how exactly cassava grows. Cassava is a root that is rich in starch and a staple crop in this part of the world. While it wasn't possible to snack on this in the wild, we tried some nearby arugula and lacinato kale, instead.

Ready to get out of the sun, I was happy to hear the call for lunch and we headed back into the shade of the covered porch and sat down to a delicious meal prepared by Angletta Pascal and Tahirah Abu-Bakr.

My group arrived just in time, because not five minutes after we sat down to lunch, the skies opened and it began to rain. The soundtrack to our lunch was the sound of raindrops cascading across the tin roof overhead. It felt like a late summer evening, only in the middle of April.

Beautifully plated entrees featuring the foods that we had just learned about arrived at our table. The crowd favorite was by far the well-seasoned curried lamb on top of a garlicky pile cassava mofongo, a twist on the mashed plantain dish. I loved the flavor of coconut that permeated every dish, and while moringa didn't have a distinct flavor that I could pick out, it's versatility astounded me and any dish with moringa flowers on it is instantly beautiful. In between bites, I found myself staring at the wildflowers that decorated every table, their beauty was astounding.

After lunch, I headed out to visit the livestock and feed them their favorite treat, moringa. The sheep and goats immediately recognized the swaying branches held before them and began a symphony of bellows.

I laughed at their excited voices and insistant stares and then, slowly, I realized that I was listening to my food, quite literally. The tasty lamb that we had just enjoyed, well it didn't arrive faceless from the grocery store. Next week's meal was possibly standing before me, and I found myself ok with that.

I headed back to rejoin the group and found them snacking, as well. This time on coconuts and a strange fruit called the stinking toe. For coconut preparation, I left that to the professional and sampled a freshly cut one through a straw. A sweet, healthy snack, which could have only have been improved by the addition of some Cruzan rum. Now those stinking toes, they were another experience, entirely.

They get their name from their god-awful scent and I am still grateful for whoever warned me not to inhale while tasting. The inside of the pod is edible and is powdery-like substance that gums up quickly in your mouth. It has a banana taste, almost like the taste of banana-flavored candy. I don't think that I will be trying it again, but it was worth it just to experience the sensation.

The farm offers a variety of options for the visitor to St. Croix. Whether you just want to come out for the day and have a tour or stay the night, they'll work with you or your group. For those wanting a taste of life on the farm, they offer farm stays starting at $35 a night. And if you want more in-depth knowledge and a hands-on learning experience, there's also several workshops offered each year, including a Permaculture Design Certificate Course. And last, but certainly not least, they host regular dinners featuring local chefs. These six course Slow Down Dinners are a time to come together, enjoy a good meal and share in the bounty of the farm. Keep up to date on their facebook page and see if you're able to join one on your next trip.