Beer and pizza, one of the few perfect combinations of food and drink. In the US, it's easy to find a great local brew, but the pizza that comes along with it is subpar at best. In Italy, it's easy to find great pizza, but a Peroni or Moretti (in a bottle) often leaves the beer aficionado's tastebuds disappointed. In wine-centric Italia, it can be difficult to find a good, local microwbrew on tap. In Rome, we've found a place that pleases both the beer-lover and those looking for good food, at Bir e Fud in Trastevere.
What we knew before:
We first read about Bir e Fud in the guidebook Roma nel Piatto. It received the praises of one of their favorite pizzerias in the city and the listed artisanal beers left us intrigued. Beer, in Italy? Sure, bring it on! So, it was at the top of our to do list when we arrived in Rome.
Our dining experience:
We wandered the first afternoon we arrived in Rome, and ended up in Trastevere a bit too early for dinner on Italian time, just after 7pm. But, we noticed some Italian patrons enjoying a beer outdoors, so we decided to give it a try. We entered, "food would be served in just 20 minutes," they said, "so would we like to sit and wait? " We did, and enjoyed two great beers while we waited. Austin had Birra del Borgo's Ke To Re Ale, an extremely alcoholic and good dark beer, while I settled on a Numbero 8 from Scarampola (check out the website for animated drinking nuns and a laugh.) For dinner, we started with some suppli (yummy, fried tidbits that are the standard staple for a pre-pizza meal.) For pizza, I quickly decided on patate e salsiccia (potatoes on pizza are one of my faves) while Austin was completely undecided. The waitress quickly gestured at the menu, uttered the words "my favorite" and Austin obliged. It was amazing melanzane, trifolata di funghi e mozzarella di bufala (eggplant, mushrooms and buffalo mozzarella.)
While we dined, Austin spied a tourist wander in with a Rick Steves guidebook in hand. Oh no, we lamented...this is going to become a tourist haven! Austin struck up a conversation with the manager, and asked how did the tourist find him? He replied that he didn't know, but they're definitely not listed in there. It's a good thing and I'd wager it might not ever be listed there. This isn't a trattoria with stereotypical dishes, it's a pizza joint, where you come for a satisfying meal, a great time with friends, and enjoy a good beer. We decided on two more Numero 8. Before we left, Austin inquired more about our favorite tasting and the manager described what was unique about this beer, how it was aged, and suggested we head across the street if we liked beer. We were stuffed and decided to return later, but never made it back to that corner of Rome. The manager claimed that the pub across the street held one of the best beer selections in the world. Next time, we'll bring our A game and be prepared.
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