When we're in a new city, I always want to check out its artistic treasures. Instead of always turning directly to the museum, I like to look outside of the big white box. After my eyes (and my wallet) have had their fill of art on the wall, I seek out lesser known venues. Public spaces always offer a wide variety of art to see, often for free, regardless of what country you are visiting.
One of the best ways to see a work of art is in situ (that is it's original location or where it was intended to be seen.) If your travels haven't taken you to Italy yet, you're missing out on a veritable feast of art in the churches of Italy.
Ok, so this isn't all free. Many churches in Italy, in fact, charge you to enter, or at the very least they'll get you to pay to light their prized possessions. You'll often see coin-operated lights in the chapels of churches that not only raise funds for the church, but also keep their precious works from constantly being subjected to damaging light. Seeing works of art just as they were viewed hundreds of years ago is a real treat, and one that can be experienced for very little money.
If you're headed to Venice, the Chorus Pass allows you access to 16 of Venice's most frequented churches for one low rate. If you plan on visiting a few churches, these tickets will quickly pay for themselves.
Rome is full of churches (more than 900 of them) housing works of the great masters. One great example is Santa Maria del Popolo which is home to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary by Annibale Carraci (left) and the Conversion on the Way to Damascus by Caravaggio (right.) (Katie Parla hints that this church is entirely free, even the lighting.) There are many churches throughout Italy that will let you in for free, while others will only charge you to see the "good stuff," like the Brancacci Chapel in Florence.
These are just a few highlights of the art available at churches in Italy. Don't forget to stop inside any church you happen along the way. Many smaller towns still have the works of the great masters, and provide you with examples of great architectural lineage throughout Italy. As in modern fashion, artists quickly moved into and out of style and demand. A regional tour of churches often let's you follow an artist's career altarpiece by altarpiece. Plus on a hot summer day, a dark, cool church is a welcome respite for recovery or prayer (if you're so inclined.)
Thanks for the shoutout! Some other free venues to see art in-situ include San Luigi dei Francesi's Contarelli Chapel with 3 Caravaggio paintings depicting the life of St. Matthew, Sant'Agostino (Caravaggio's Madonna di Loreto, Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (Lippi's Carafa Chapel is exquisite), and Sant'Ignazio's tromp l'oiel masterpieces by Pozzo. For some of the worlds most amazing mosaics: San Clemente, Santa Prassede, Santa Maria Maggiore, Santa Cecilia, and Santa Maria in Trastevere.
Note that the Brancacci now requires you to make reservations to go and visit the chapel. Katie pointed out some great ones in Rome, to which I'd add Santa Maria della Vittoria for Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Teresa and San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane for some cool Borromini architecture. I also love Luca Signorelli's awesome Last Judgement fresco in Orvieto's Duomo. The floors in Siena's cathedral are incredible, though there is a small fee.
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